Monday, November 15, 2010

YORK

York...oh where do I begin? It seems now that I'm blogging regularly, everything that strikes me as remotely interesting, funny, or absurd has to be mentally noted for blog material. It's exhausting. But on the bright side, I've got loads to tell you all about yesterdays excursion.

I might as well start where I always do, the coach, which is noteworthy this time because it actually left campus on schedule! And we arrived swiftly, and even departed from York in an equally timely manner. Nor was I plagued by any noisy foreigners or neighbors wearing smoke-drenched clothing. It was almost too good to be true.

The driver dropped us off outside the York Theatre Royal, and I promptly engaged in a search for some much needed coffee. I didn't have a clue where-to, but I just started walking, which I've officially adopted as my new strategy for day-tripping (since I can't seem to plan anything and am hopeless with maps). We'd arrived in York around 10:30 and as I approached the center of town it was already packed!! Then again, everywhere in England seems to be perpetually crowded with people, so I should've expected it. Unfortunately this meant a huge line out the door of Starbucks, and as I continued to wander around, lines out of Cafe Nero, Greggs, and all other discernible coffee shops. Ughhhh. Running low on sleep and energy, I climbed an odd flight of stairs to a tea room (or something of the sort) where the waitress--obviously realizing I was lost and didn't understand this place--kindly offered me a To-go cup of coffee. This ended up being the smallest To-go cup I've ever seen and cost me 2 pounds. Sigh. Better than nothing. I popped into a bake shop afterwards to grab a sausage roll, which cheered me up considerably, and feeling refreshed I was off again to wander.

I came upon Clifford's Tower right away (see pictures below) and began to feel pretty confident in my touring strategy, considering I was already hitting must-see historic attractions without even trying. If only to encourage my confidence, 5 minutes later I walked around a corner to spot a gigantic H&M! Gahhhh!!! Heaven is uber stylish and affordable clothing. I proceeded to spend the next hour or so happily combing through clothing racks and avoiding the shrill and pushy pre-teens congregating in the 'clubwear' section. I eventually fell in love with an adorable grey blazer, which I bought and wore in lieu of my North Face vest the rest of the day (and which paired with my Ralph Lauren boots, prompted an Englishman I got directions from to ask whether I planned on going riding later. Haha, whatever, I looked totally cute).

I hadn't been aware of the large shopping venue that is York, and was impressed by the amount of designer shops and boutiques residing in the area. I walked through The Shambles, which is apparently one of York's oldest medieval streets, as well as one of the most photographed streets in England. Along it I popped into a shop called The Cat Gallery, where I had to seriously resist buying a 2011 Yoga Cats calendar to replace last years, Yoga Dogs. I did however manage to pick up their Cat-Lovers Christmas catalog, offering everything from Dancing Cat Ipod speakers to toilets seats with kitten graphics. Look out.

A few streets over was the York Minster, looming over everything. I didn't get a chance to go inside because it was currently closed for service, but I walked around back through the gardens, and peeked around inside the Treasurer's House and garden, while taking lots of pictures. Unfortunately I didn't feel like accosting anyone to take pictures of me, so they're lacking in the Shelby department, but I'll plan for lots in the next couple of weeks.

All the picture taking and aimless wandering had me thirsty, so I decided to seek one of the three 'classic' pubs in York. The guide book I was given had an offer for a free t-shirt if you buy a drink and obtain a stamp at all three. It seemed a little ambitious to me, but I figured I'd at least get to one of them. After unsuccessfully navigating the miniature map in my guide, I luckily stumbled upon The Old White Swan. It's a really cool venue, comprised of three bars surrounding a courtyard. I went in and ordered a pint, and couldn't find an empty seat in the house! I guess I found the place to be for once, and it completely embodied my vision of a classic English pub. Cozy fireplaces, sturdy wood tables, dim lighting, and lots of happy, laughing, drinking English people. THIS is what I wanted for the rest of my afternoon. So I finished my pint and mustered the courage to look like a total tourist and ask the bartender to stamp my guide book (though I felt better looking properly sophisticated in my adorable blazer).

The only downside of my new plan was that I now had to find the other two bars. But something was in the cards-or perhaps I'm better with directions after I've had a pint in me (which still won't help me in the car)-and I found pub #2, The Punch Bowl, right away! Also picturesque and equally as crowded. I ordered a Yorkshire Terrier Ale, which seemed appropriate, and perched next to the bar only to look up and see this sign...

Awesome. And only in England.

I probably should've ordered a pie as well, because I was down two pints and still only running on the morning's sausage roll. I left with my stamp and stopped at 'York Hogroast' down the road, which boasted hand carved sandwiches and 'a true taste of york'. Cool, I just needed food. I had a roasted pork sandwich filled with apple sauce and stuffing, which apparently comes with something called a 'crackling'? English mystery #4732 for Shelby. Turns out it's a crunchy pork rind, and also that it's completely gross.

I thought I'd wait a bit on pint #3. I strolled up and down the Roman walls overlooking the River Ouse. I found a place called Demijohn, which is basically a liquid deli where you can sample and choose from their hand crafted British wines, spirits, oils and vinegars. Pretty cool. I sampled their Rhubarb Vodka Liqueur, odd sounding but lip-licking delicious.

I also spotted what appeared to be a Christmas craft market, and followed in a girl and her guy--who was complaining about being dragged to look at craft stuff, again. I walked in and quickly glanced around before being yelled at by a gentleman at the entrance asking 50p for admission. Psshhh. 'Forget that' I said, 'I was interested but not THAT interested', which was met by immediate approval from the irritated boyfriend. I felt defiant...and still a little drunk. So I went across the street to the Yorkshire Museum for a bit, where I learned all I needed to know about York's Roman, Viking, and Religious history.

It was then about 4:30 and looking like time for Pint #3, considering I was due back to the coach at 6. The final pub was Harkers, 'a symbol of grand Georgian architecture, built in 1824 on the Roman site of the Praetorian Gate', according to mr. guide book. And it WAS grand, the interior looking like a converted ballroom with multi-level seating furnished with high-backed chairs and overstuffed leather sofas, fancy wall decor, tall windows, and that perfectly dim lighting. I actually found a table this time, but quickly relinquished it to 3 couples looking for a place to settle. I couldn't help but be envious of everyone surrounded by friends and lively conversation. It's those moments that make me miss you all and wish I could be enjoying such great places with my own friends and family. We'd have a ball. But alas, I am that lonely tourist girl, standing awkwardly aside and swigging down her pint, whilst clutching her prized 'I toured the Classic pubs of Britain' t-shirt. Sigh.

Despite that sad image, I had a superbly enjoyable day. The weather was beautiful, the city was amazing (definitely noting York as a must-see), and I left with some cute clothes. I couldn't have hoped for anything better:)

Clifford's Tower

York Minster

Minster garden

Treasurer's House and Gardens




3 comments:

  1. Best one yet, Shelby. Your ability to turn a phrase makes these pieces all the more fun to read. My English friend at UMaine was from Yorkshire and has told me of his Mother bringing him to York for their once-a-year Christmas shopping spree. I think you had more fun that he did. Great pictures; great prose.
    Love you, kid

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